A group of three, myself, the only other Aussie at my University and a guy from Belgium made our way into the eastern most part of Michoacán, a state next to Queretaro to see one of the most complex animal migrations on the planet. Millions of Monarch butterflies or "Mariposas Monarcas" travel all the way from the US and Canada to meet in this central part of Mexico and mate. They are so numerous that they weigh down the thick branches of the trees they occupy deep in the mountains. After March they begin their journey back to the US to lay their eggs. The reason for their voyage is still puzzling to scientists.
We took a few wrong turns and ventured into small cobble road villages somewhat awkwardly positioned into the sides of mountains joined by small bridges and mountain trails. The scenery was beautiful, and ancient fern trees covered in moss and greenery, stood like giants covering the mountains, the dangerous road that seemed to curve and bend at every opportunity provided the perfect viewpoint for this classic scenery. Upon entering Michoacán we were also greeted with a huge wanted sign, with the photos of the infamous leaders of the leading drug cartel in Morelia "La Familia". Michoacán, I've been told by many Mexicans is regarded as the most dangerous state in Mexico and many horror stories and extremely strong evidence of military and police patrols could validate this, but it's hard to imagine this place with all it's beauty, it's small quaint villages and modest mountain peoples could be so dangerous.
When we finally made it to our chosen mountain we were met by locals offering horse rides and a girl who offered to be our guide. Luckily we accepted. She took us deep into the mountains nothing in sight but a puzzling scene of tall fern trees, grass and moss and a little creek which greeted us now and then. I have to admit there were a few times when I was a little worried about us making our way back, I have no idea how she knew where we were or where we were going. After walking for about an hour and having seen no sign of butterflies I thought this would be one of those things, were the locals apologise and say the butterflies must have left half n hour before we got there.
After some more walking though, I started seeing bright orange wings scattered along the forest floor. Here and there a dead butterfly would appear. Our guide looked at us and told us to be silent. Slowly and silently we made our way through thick plants and there they were, hanging from the branches in clusters so thick and heavy that the trees seemed to droop almost sad with the burden of these flying beauties. There were hundreds upon hundreds all sitting among the trees and the branches of plants close by. After a few moments of admiration the sun came out, and almost like a movie scene perfectly timed, with it came the butterflies. If I thought there were a lot of butterflies at the start, I was proved wrong. Slowly but surely they made there way away from the branches and took to flight in the most spectacular flight show I've ever seen. Almost as if the suns rays had brought them to life, their orange wings glowing in the golden warmth. It was amazing to sit there, to be in awe of them, to appreciate their simplicity and their freedom as they cut through the sky.
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